Few fabrics feel quite like double gauze. Light as air, it almost floats, with a soft hand and gentle loft. It's the fabric behind so many of those easy summer garments and impossibly soft baby blankets, and it's one of our perennial warm-weather favorites.
Shop our cotton double gauze fabrics ->
What is double gauze?
Double gauze is a light, airy fabric made of two layers of loosely woven cotton gauze, joined by tiny, intermittently placed stitches. Its double-layer construction is what makes it both light and breathable while also fluffy and opaque. It's a favorite for apparel that feels light as air, as well as for baby blankets, swaddles, and accessories.
How is double gauze made?
People are often surprised to learn that double gauze isn't just two layers of gauze stacked and sewn together. They are, in fact, woven at the same time on the same loom, and bound to each other at regular intervals by small tack stitches that catch both layers. These binding points are so fine and discreet they're nearly invisible to the naked eye.
The "gauze" in the name refers to the open, airy way each layer is woven. Trapping a cushion of air between two of these breathable layers is what gives double gauze its signature combination: soft and lofty enough to feel cozy, yet light and open enough to breathe.
Double gauze comes off the loom relatively smooth. From there, special finishing treatments at the mill can be employed to give it a crinkled, puckered texture.
What are the different kinds of double gauze?
We carry a few different types of double gauze, which differ mainly in their fineness and texture:
Japanese Smooth Double Gauze — Made with very delicate threads, which give it an exceptionally smooth hand. The prints are generally backed with a layer of unprinted white gauze, and the fabric gets softer and airier with every wash.
Our line of Nani Iro Double Gauze fabrics from Japan ->
Organic Cotton Double Gauze — Not quite as silky-smooth as the Japanese double gauze, but still smooth, lightweight, with a lovely bouncy drape. A wonderful, versatile choice for clothes and accessories.
Crinkle Double Gauze — Made the same way as smooth double gauze, then treated afterward in a wash that encourages it to crinkle and pucker. It has a fluffy hand and arrives lofty and soft right off the bolt.
Shop our crinkle double gauze fabrics ->
Where does double gauze come from?
Double gauze is woven all over the world today, but its origin story starts gauze itself, one of the oldest and most widespread fabric weaves.
The word "gauze" is generally traced to the Middle East, and you'll often read that it derives from Gaza, a prosperous textile-trading hub in the ancient world. Others connect it to the Arabic qazz and the Persian kaz, both referring to raw silk, the fiber early gauze was woven from.
Fine, gauzy cottons have a particularly rich history on the Indian subcontinent, where the Bengal region was famed for centuries for weaving some of the most exquisite lightweight cotton in the world. As breathable Indian cottons made their way to Europe, the French in particular took to gauze for light clothing and home goods.
The double gauze beloved by sewists today, though, owes its modern popularity largely to Japan. Japanese textile makers refined the soft, double-layered cloth into the high-quality fabric we recognize now, and when the artist Naomi Ito debuted her Nani Iro line with the Japanese house Kokka in 2002, her watercolor prints on double gauze earned a devoted following.
What should I make with double gauze?
Because double gauze is so light and airy, breezy warm-weather garments are where it truly shines:
It shines in a relaxed, flowing silhouette. Anything loose, gathered, or softly draped will show off its movement beautifully. Many people also love double gauze for baby blankets, swaddling cloths, and clothing, since it's so gentle against the skin.
Is double gauze hard to sew with?
As a relatively stable cotton fabric, double gauze is beginner-friendly. That said, its loose, airy weave requires a slightly gentler touch.
Cutting
Use a rotary cutter and pattern weights for the cleanest cuts. Because the weave shifts easily, cut pattern pieces as a single layer, rather than doubled and folded.
Marking and pinning
Use fine-gauge pins, such as silk pins, to avoid piercing and leaving holes behind. For marking, use tailor's chalk or baste with a fine needle.
Needle and machine
Use a new, sharp, fine needle, such as a size 70 universal, sharp, or microtex. A walking foot helps feed both layers through evenly and prevent rippled seams. Set a slightly longer stitch length and reduce the top thread tension to reduce puckering.
Stay stitching
Double gauze tends to distort along the bias, so stay stitch any curves, such as necklines and armholes, before assembling your garment.
Thread and seam finishes
All-purpose polyester thread works well with double gauze - no specialty thread required. Because double gauze frays, like most wovens, seam finishing is essential. A serger or a simple zigzag stitch on the raw edges will keep everything tidy.
Pressing
Press on low heat, or use steam only, for best results. If you're working with crinkle gauze, hover the iron above the fabric and use lots of steam to remove wrinkles but keep the crinkle texture intact.
How do I wash and care for double gauze?
Most double gauze is cotton, so it can generally be machine washed and dried. However, to preserve color and texture, and keep shrinkage to a minimum, wash on a delicate cycle in cold water and hang to dry.
Double gauze can shrink 10-15%, so always prewash and dry your double gauze the way you intend to care for the finished garment before you cut.
Learn more about double gauze and gauze
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Leno weave — Wikipedia: A well-referenced overview of the gauze/leno structure, including Japan's centuries-old karamiori leno-weave traditions.
- Gauze in the collection — Victoria and Albert Museum: Museum holdings of the garments and objects made with gauze.
- Nani Iro — Kokka Fabrics: From the Japanese manufacturer behind Naomi Ito's Nani Iro line, on the rise of modern double gauze (a maker's source, included for the contemporary story).