Drawer of Plants and Fabrics (TextielMuseum, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons)
Linen fabric is a material made from the natural fibers of the flax plant. It is durable with a slight luster and is used for a wide range of purposes, including clothing, home goods, drapery, and upholstery.
There are many advantages to linen fabric. It is both durable and highly breathable, allowing the wearer to stay cool and comfortable. It has anti-static properties, doesn't pill, and is insect-resistant. Linen fibers have a natural sheen, and finely woven fabric feels light and airy on, making it ideal for clothing.
It is also a sustainable, eco-friendly fabric. The flax plant grows quickly and easily, even in marginal conditions. It requires few chemicals and no irrigation, meaning it uses fewer petrochemicals and less water than other natural fiber plants.
Brand-new linen fabric can feel stiff and slightly scratchy, but it becomes softer with washing and wear. Linen fibers lack elasticity, which means linen fabric wrinkles easily. Linen fabric is more costly than cotton. Finally, dyed linen fabric can fade easily if left in the sun for long periods.
Linen is a 100% natural fiber, similar to cotton.
Principally, linen is any fabric made from the fibers of the flax plant. However, the term "linen weave" is sometimes used as a synonym for "plain weave," a simple under-over weave that accounts for approximately half of all woven apparel fabrics.
Linen is made of the bast fibers of the flax plant, a.k.a. linseed plant.
When flax plants are mature, they are pulled from the ground to keep their long fibers intact and left in the field to decompose for a short time. Then, the plants undergo retting and breaking, mechanical processes that separate the bast fibers from the tough outer layers and soft inner pith of the flax plant. The fibers are then combed into strands that are spun into yarn that can be used to weave linen fabric.
As of 2021, France, Belgium, and Belarus grew and exported 80% of the world's flax fibers. As of 2018, the largest exporters of woven linen cloth were China, Italy, Belgium, and the United Kingdom.
Linen fabric tends to be more expensive than other natural fibers because the production process is time-consuming, and some parts of it are non-mechanized (i.e., done by hand).
Care instructions for linen fabrics can vary, so it's best to follow the manufacturer's guidelines whenever possible. Generally, however, it is best to wash linen fabric in cold water, either by hand or on the delicate cycle in a washing machine. Do not use bleach or fabric softener.
Linen fabric should be hung to dry or tumbled dry on a low heat setting. Some folks prefer to tumble dry for a few minutes to release wrinkles and then hang to dry.
Yes, linen can be ironed on medium to high heat and with steam.
Depending on the weave and production process, linen fabric can shrink by anywhere from 0% to 15%. The average shrinkage is 5%. Generally, linen only shrinks on the first wash, as the fibers release the tension from spinning and weaving. Unlike cotton, linen does not shrink in every wash.
Linen can be dyed at home using an all-purpose dye for natural fibers, such as Rit.
Both linen and cotton are natural fabric and excellent for dressmaking. Linen is stronger than cotton, more absorbent than cotton, takes dye better, and shrinks less than cotton. Cotton is slightly easier to care for and more elastic than linen. Cotton and linen are equally durable and anti-static.
While both cotton and linen fabric are popular choices for summer clothing, linen fabric is widely recognized as superior for hot and humid conditions. The fiber structure of linen allows it to absorb moisture more quickly and move it away from the body while feeling less damp than cotton when equally saturated. Linen's stiffer hand also keeps the fabric away from the body, allowing for more air to circulate and cool the skin.
While linen is often associated with cool summer clothing, the same properties that make it suitable for summer also make it suitable for winter. It helps keep the one warm and dry by wicking cooling sweat and moisture from the body. However, it doesn't necessarily keep you warm like a loft wool or fleece would. Heavier linen fabrics are best for winter wear, worn with insulating layers beneath.
Yes! Recycled linen fabric is available on the market. It is generally made with scraps left on the cutting or weaving floor. Recycled linen has the benefit of producing nearly no chemical waste and requiring no water. In the recycling process, linen fibers tend to be shortened, resulting in a softer feel from the outset.
Overall, yes. As a natural fiber, 100% linen fabric is biodegradable and compostable. Flax, the plant from which linen fabric is made, uses very little fertilizer and pesticides, can grow in marginal soils, and uses much less water than other natural fibers, like cotton. In addition, very little of the flax plant is wasted. Its seeds are used for food, and the woody material produces linseed oil.
That said, the retting process, part of transforming flax into linen fabric, can involve the use of alkali or oxalic acid, which can be toxic if released into the environment. Thankfully, this step can be achieved with water alone, thereby eliminating the need for chemicals in the process.
Frankie Rose Fabrics offers several lines of high-quality linen fabric by the yard, carefully selected for garment-making purposes. Our Luxe Laundered Linen comes in over 10 solid shades, a soft and lightweight linen fabric perfect for clothing. We offer a vibrant selection of Merchant and Mills linen, including gingham linen fabric, checks, and stripes, all crafted in Eastern Europe. Finally, we carry an affordable line of linen blends in solids and yarn-dyed colors.
Sources
Bumblebee Linens. Eco-Friendly Guide for Linen Recycling.
Fashionary International Ltd. (2021) Textilepedia: The Complete Fabric Guide.
Gaia Vietnam. (2024) How to dye linen fabric: A step-by-step guide.
Helgi Library. (2023) Which Country Produces the Most Flax Fibre and Tow?
Isles, Ayana. Georgia Tech. (2024) Stay Cool: Top Fabrics to Wear to Survive the Summer Heat.
Marini, Eleonora. (2024). The Properties of Linen and Why Choose Recycled Linen.
MasterClass. (2021) What Is Linen? Everything You Need to Know About Using and Caring for Linen
Regal Rarities. (2024) Details of Finishing Touches forLinen Fabric: Perfecting the Fabric.
Sewport Support Team. (2025) What is Linen Fabric: Properties, How it's Made and Where
Threads Magazine. (2016) The Complete Guide to Linen.
World Linen. Fine Linens.
